A Long Way For A Curry

16/07/25 - Day Sixty-Five The show must go on. I woke to my alarm at 0830, and soon realised there was no way I’d make the 0945 ferry to Yalova. I squirmed around in bed for a short while before getting up and at it. After breakfast and packing, I wrote on Erdinç’s wall like many cycle travellers before, and took a photo of the 3 of us. We said our farewells, and they wished me luck. I only just made the ferry, and only because it left late!  I caught up on the blog while we sailed. I stopped at the supermarket and then sat outside a mosque to eat lunch when I arrived in Yalova. A group of women started (trying) to talk to me. One was especially chatty, she spoke in Bulgarian, and the only thing I could make out was that she spoke Bulgarian and Russian but not English. Despite the clear language barrier, she repeated herself again and again, yet I still could not understand. I think she was saying she lived in the hotel, or that I should stay there. I mimed cycling and then listed...

15/07/25 - Day Sixty-Four My 26th birthday! I took the ferry to one of the islands off of Istanbul, where I walked to the beach. I read, swam and basked in the sun - enjoying the simple bliss of doing fuck all. Back to the heaving city to pick up my bike. Barbara was looking immaculate, having had a good clean and she positively gleamed in the evening light! I then treated myself to a big meal. Erdinç’s suggestion turned out to have doubled in price compared to the menu on Google reviews, a lovely birthday surprise! Ah well. Not the greatest value but was very tasty, so I left content. I headed home and conked out - later than I had wanted to as the others were still up.     I can't convey just how much this makes me happy haha!        

14/07/25 - Day Sixty-Three I drop my bike off for a service, before blobbing out and reading. In the late afternoon I have to muster all my strength to go into Emininou and see the bazaars - I know I won’t feel like it tomorrow! Feeling absolutely exhausted, I get the ferry back to Kadikoy. The sun sets behind the Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia), which really is a magical sight. I can’t think of any better words to describe it right now I’m sorry, you’ll have to settle for a throw away phrase. It was only ruined by the masses running up to take photos and blocking the view. I meet Manuel, Isabel and Sam at a bar for some bday drinks. Very thoughtfully, and much to my surprise, they give me some small gifts: some electrolytes and a camping mug. Up until now I’d just been using my pot, to the amusement of Sam and Isa. We chat away into the night.     

13/07/25  -  Day Sixty-Two It’ll go down in the annals as the Day of the Welding! It was an epic. It involved waiting around for 5 hours for Erdinç’s mate to come along to his workshop. All I wanted was to go a lie down somewhere and eat, but duty called and I needed my bike fixed. When he finally turned up, I wasn’t done with waiting. Oh no, it wouldn’t be that easy. He spent some time sorting out an invoice with the others at the workshop.  Eventually we went together to his studio apartment, where his workshop was too. A cool space - I don’t think I could get tired of workshops and all the paraphernalia. There was a problem with the welding machine, and so after a tense wait that involved a couple of phone calls, it seemed to be working again. It wasn’t a pretty job or very professional, but it was free. I just hoped it would hold, but it figured it didn’t need to look good to be strong. Erdinç’s friends arrived, and so I sat hanging out with them - mostly listening t...

12/07/25 - Day Sixty-One Later start today to get a good sleep after yesterday. Coffee and breakfast in the cooler morning sun. 45 miles to ride till we arrive in Istanbul! A big milestone, only now really starting to sink in and the excitement building. A slight anticipation in the air, due to the notoriety of the cycle into Istanbul. Crazy traffic, and stories of dangerous drivers, had piqued my interest. Many people suggesting a ferry or to metro into the city. I wanted to experience it for myself however, and Manuel was keen to give it a try too.  Our route following the Sultans trail, looked like it wiggled a quieter path to the centre. We had no issues whatsoever really, just normal slightly hectic city riding. Nothing compared to the chaos of motorcycling out of Ho Chi Minh City or into Hanoi. I was left somewhat disappointed by it all as it was smooth sailing all the way in. There were many hills, which our tired legs struggled through, and after an unintentional nap in a ...

11/07/25 - Day Sixty Today was a really great day. Manuel and I set off later than planned at 0800, after saying our goodbyes to the rest of the gang, and Inanç of course! We chatted away the morning miles, battling strong headwinds as we went. After a shop and lunch in Saray, I was absolutely KO’d - defeated by my own greed once again. Many friendly Turks came to try and speak with us as we sat. What a country! Seemingly full of genuinely lovely friendly souls, always trying to communicate with us. Wow! Post lunch miles very tough to begin with, but gave way to a cracking afternoon of punchy climbs and punchier descents. At one point brushing shoulders with death - I looked up from a head down burst of speed, to find an overtaking pickup barrelling right at me. It barely missed me evidently, but left me shook. There were a lot of big dogs out today - some friendly, some mangey, some aggressive. We were flagged down by more frenchies in the late evening. A friendly French couple goin...

 10/07/25 - Day Fifty-Nine We rose at 7ish in unison, and with barely a word said between us, packed our things and left. No talk of breakfast, we had a job to do. The wind continued and thankfully it was still to our rear so we enjoyed speedy cycling along the wide hard shoulder of the dual carriageway. After 12 miles or so we stopped in a town for coffee and some breakfast, as well as to relieve ourselves. More hard shoulder miles followed until our next stop for a bit of lunch. We sat in a park and had a comical encounter with a man who we couldn’t quite figure out if he was trying to sell or gift us some lemons. He didn’t seem to be giving them to us by also wasn’t really insisting we paid. I suspect he was waiting for us to take them, before costing us for money. Anyway he was good humoured and bid us a friendly goodbye.  We had been flying along, and hadn’t far to go till we reached the Lüleburgaz Yıldızları Bisiklet Akademisi! Isabel had told us of this place, since sh...