Day Seven

May 23, 2025

19/05/25 - Day Seven

I struggled to wake up this morning so snoozed till 8am. By the time I had broke camp, cooked and forced down my porridge it was 9:40, so I didn’t hang about. Just before reaching Arnhem, I stopped at the Arnhem and Oosterbeek War Cemetery, commemorating the fallen allied troops (mostly British and 79 Poles) who fought at the battle of Arnhem. This was part of the wider Operation Market Garden in the area, Band of Brothers watchers will remember this. It was a powerful moment as I had the place to myself, and, ever since applying for the marines these types of things have made me more emotional.

After a healthy hit of silent reflection, I mashed the pedals once more, and soon I was sipping coffee in a sunny Arnhem square. I asked the waitress if she knew anywhere I could buy some Oliebollen (Dutch doughnuts), but tis not the season! I cracked on and crossed the river twice on ferries which will never not give me a kick. I then sat and lunched overlooking the Rhine at the border town of Millingen aan de Rijn. Now with Erika blasting in my headphones I cycled into Germany.

Soon after Erika finished I hit a post lunch lull and struggled on to the 40mile mark, at which point, my leg pain started up and I ran out of water. Thirsty and unhappy I limped along taking many breaks. I asked a man watering his garden for water and then sat to watch some wake boarders on a lake - they weren’t very good.

In the gorgeous evening warmth my mood improved as my leg pain was manageable and not getting any worse. I began looking for a camp spot but it proved fruitless. Everywhere was inaccessible by fence or flora. Almost an hour and a half had passed and I was growing desperate, not to mention my mileage was clocking up too high for my liking. I then came across a massive abandoned bridge, with a track running beside it. I followed it till it crossed under and off through some fields. There was a tucked away corner not visible from the road.

I stored this information in my brain and climbed up onto the bridge to have a little nose around. I followed classic signs of youth activity: graffiti, empty beer bottles and mysteriously, small ziplock bags? I retraced my steps and looked briefly for other camp spots. My indecision at an all time high. I faffed about thinking of the best plan, it was almost dark and I was knackered. Eventually I committed to an idea, so cooked and ate under on of the bridge arches and backed the farmers field camp option. I would have to rise early to ensure not being caught! Tough afternoon today but we keeping plugging away.