Day Forty-Eight

29/06/25 - Day Forty-Eight

Solid day today finishing up on 55 miles, should have been more maybe, but I couldn’t turn down some company for the evening! I woke at 5, and spent the next hour in and out of sleep - I kept thinking I heard a tractor approaching. I swiftly packed my stuff, after fully waking up, and hit the road. 

My legs felt stronger than yesterday, and there wasn’t a headwind. I cruised the 10 miles into Golubac, where I stocked up on supplies and treated myself to a Burek for breakfast! Pressing on, I headed for the Golubac fortress in the distance. Unfortunately, it was paid entry, not very cheap and closed - dismayed I was stuck gazing at it from afar, taking some subpar photos. This section of the Danube has been the most impressive yet! I took a detour signposted by the Eurovelo signs, up into the forested hills. After passing many butterflies and bee hives low down, a real sweat fest began. Sustained 7% slopes, with gravel or broken road surfaces provided a nice challenge. I stuck at it, drinking plenty, and sweating out more, until I reached a well earned view. A fun, and slightly technical descent followed with more superb views, rewarding me for my upwards toil. Refreshingly vertical after so long tracking the Danube. As soon as I reached the bottom, I started to climb again! And just before I rejoined the Djerdap Highway, I came upon a couple of cycle tourists, stopped in the shade. I promptly nestled in behind then took some long glugs of water. 

Isabelle and Sam, who I assumed were a couple until I found out they weren’t later that evening! Brother and sister, riding from Budapest to Istanbul, then flying out to do the Pamir Highway! We compared how much each others setup weighed, before they continued on. I caught up with them at the top of the next climb, as they had stopped to look at something. Then the fast and dreamy descent. Sam stopped at the bottom, stung by a bee. I stopped alongside them to ask for Isabelle’s contact - she’d ridden through Turkey before, and I was always on the hunt for recommendations. We set off in unison headed for the next town, but they soon pulled ahead, as I stopped to read some signs. I lunched in town and spotted them at a nearby cafe, waving! 

I set off after lunch, alone again. After a water source on my map proving a dud, I thought I’d swing by the rest area where Isabelle and Sam had said they’d planned to camp. Conveniently, it had a water source. Once I arrived I couldn’t bear to drag myself away. I craved the company and good conversation that followed. Isabel was an experienced cycle tourist, so I picked her brains about turkey. They also had a portable shower so I got in on the action of a refreshing clean. We cooked and chatted and played some cards before getting an early night.

 

 

 

 

 

Burek and a cuppa!

 

 

 

 

 

Golubac Fortress, make it free!!!

 

mmmm...

 

A much nicer view of the fortress

 

 

 

 

 

Rewarded with some stellar views

 

 

 

 

 

Not another one!!!

 

Get out me bread man!

 

 

 

First ever face mask!

 

Yer bastards!

 

 

 

 

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