Day Forty-Nine

30/06/25 - Day Forty-Nine


I’ll let the photos from today do the talking. Best riding of the trip so far! Steady climbs, followed by blissful descents full of whooping with joy. The Iron Gates of the Danube do not disappoint. I repeat, do NOT disappoint.

I didn’t sleep well last night, maybe partly due to a street light turning on right above my tent as I was getting ready for bed. I woke to the rustlings of Isabel and Sam, starting to pack away their things. Lying for a minute rubbing my eyes into action, before exiting and bidding them good morning. I asked them about the vehicle I heard first thing - someone collecting water from the source by the shelter we camped at. It seemed no one had running water in the village! We chatted and breakfasted together sharing eggs, coffee and honey. Isabel then asked me if I wanted to ride with them for a while, so I gladly accepted! It was a buzz to not be riding solo again. 

As I said before, the grandeur of Iron Gates blew us away and the climbs were more than worth the effort. There were several unnerving tunnels, and owing to my laziness to get my front light out of my bag I cycled blind, aiming for Isabel’s red light flashing at me from afar. Each angle of the gorges brought fresh wonder and joy to all of us, it was the dream start to the day. 

After topping out the last big climb, we came across a Ukrainian lady in need. She had managed to drive into a ditch and become beached as a result. We began brainstorming some ideas, deciding on sitting in the boot whilst she tried reversing. I was skeptical to say the least and thought we’d need a tow, but miraculously the car came free with some gentle revs. As easy as that! She thanked us, offered us money and gave me a hug! We crunched out the miles to the next town, where we had lunch together. Sam is a chef, and whipped up a delicious dish of rice, onions, peppers and feta. Luxury by my standards! With a heavy heart I left them here - they were taking it easy as Sam had an injured knee - and pressed on ahead. 

While we had helped the Ukrainian lady with her car, a Serbian man on a bike had stopped too. He chatted with Isabel and Sam, offering them a place to stay in Negotin, the next city. I got his contact from Isabel and went after the afternoon miles with renewed strength. Unfortunately, he didn’t reply, so I cruised through Negotin, enjoying the warm evening vibes there. People were out and about in the park, square, and surrounding streets. Whilst leaving Negotin, I was saddened by the big piles of rubbish dumped on the outskirts. Saddened even more seeing a mother with her children trawling through one of them. Some street dog pups emerged from behind another, such innocence in their eyes, doomed to a life of struggle and savagery. This is is part of Europe! I pressed on searching for camp, not finding one till after a 2.5 mile hill to top off the day. I’ve pitched my tent for the first time inner only - I now lie here starkers, sweating. It’s still 24 degrees! Way too hot for an Englishman at this hour. 

 

Camp spidey

 

 

 

Pulling out all my best poses

 

 

 

Da egg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cool head carved into a cliff!

 

 

 

 

 

Out here completing side quests!

 

Gang shit

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Surveying the plains below...

 

 

 

 

 

 

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