Day Fifty-Five

August 21, 2025

Day Fifty-Five - 06/07/25

Grandparents and the importance of hearing their stories and learning about their lives. All it takes is a simple question and you will open up a whole world of their lore! I regret not asking mine these questions, partly a symptom of being too young and partly some shyness on my part perhaps? They want to share and relive these memories too especially as they get old and friends die. A cure to loneliness?

Angelina, became my new grandma for the morning as we sat together drinking coffee and talking at length. Angelina Bolyarska, was her full name. Bolyarska coming from the old Bulgarian aristocracy, the Boyars, during the time of the kings Kaloyan, Simeon and Gor. Some of the most famous Bulgarians of this time were Boyars, when they fought against Turkish rule. She explained how this was all a very important part of Bulgarian history. What was the name of the wife of Bulgaria's most famous writer and poet, Ivan Vazov? Atina Bolyarska, a unique woman, Angelina explained.

I asked her what it was like to live under the communist rule. She had fond memories of this time, she grew up in the same village as one of the dictators, so had a good life. She was a successful conductor, performing for many high ranking officials and travelled all around Europe! She wasn’t telling me this to brag, but that she took pleasure in reliving her life, the good and the bad times. And there were bad times: her husband died in a road accident when both her children were under 5. It is a shame she will never see any grandchildren, she tells me, as both Pavel and Lachezar have no woman. It is the reason she feels she is able to open up about her life to me, she feels like I am the grandchild she never had! She goes on to tell me about an alcoholic Kuwait million/billionaire who has also camped with them before, and is still friends with Pavel to this day.

Then as I am about to write in their guestbook, Angelina stumbles and begins to fall. I leap from my seat, running to try and catch her, but she falls landing heavily with a sickening crunch onto her shoulder. She is in some pain as I try and comfort her, and ice her shoulder. I call Lachezar, and he arrives quickly from work. An ambulance is called, and I stay to help transfer her into it. Lachezar, is very thankful, saying I must be sent from God! I tell him I am only glad I was on hand to call for help. It feels good to finally be able to repay some of the kindness I have received on my journey.

So I set off late today, made even later by my stopping at the Museum of Botevgrad. It is filled with interesting local history, but of course the main attraction being Angelina’s portrait in the “Honorary Citizens” section! My thoughts are with her as I cook tonight. Despite the late start I cover a decent amount of miles and elevation - finding a lovely camp on top of a hill with the sun setting. I am passed by a friendly man in a car as I admire the sky. He passes me again, this time in the darkness, as I cook my food away from my tent on the track. I needn’t have worried though, as he’s just as friendly on the second passing. I have taken bear precautions tonight, to be on the safe side, due to my proximity to the central Balkan national park. Seeing bear shaped silhouettes as I return to my tent, I have to remind myself how silly I am being. I am not seriously worried of a bear encounter, but there is always that tiny part of my brain that likes to keep me on my toes!